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Culture
Vienna’s role as the capital of an empire that lasted for centuries has meant that artists and musicians have flourished in the city. The musicians who have at one time lived and worked in Vienna are especially remembered by a series of annual festivals. Among the esteemed maestros are Johann Strauss, Franz Schubert, Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Brahms, Schönberg and Mahler. It was in Vienna that Mozart created his operas and Strauss gave the world the Blue Danube waltz and such beloved operettas as Der Fledermaus. The city’s performance venues are of the highest calibre and include the world-renowned Staatsoper and the Burgtheater – one of the most important theatres in the German-speaking world.
Vienna has been at the centre of a number of artistic movements, notably at the turn of the century, when the members of the Secessionist movement reacted against the rigidity of the bourgeois establishment and the constraints of figurative painting. These artistic periods are writ large in the variety of architecture that graces the city, from splendid Baroque palaces to Otto Wagner’s Art Nouveau U-Bahn stations (on the U4 line, notably Karlsplatz) and Postsparkasse (Post Office Savings Bank). There are wonderful Art Nouveau houses on the Linke Wienzeile (opposite the Naschmarkt) and delightful 20th-century buildings in the Innerestadt, including the Loos Haus (opposite the Hofburg) and boutiques by Hans Hollein. Not to be missed, however, is the Secession, designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich, in 1897. The striking exterior is only the beginning, for Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven frieze lies within. Famous painters, such as Klimt, Egon Schiele and, more recently, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, are an important part of Vienna’s artistic heritage and their works are popular attractions.
Tickets to cultural events are available for purchase from all major concert venues and theatres. Bookings can also be make at Bundestheaterkassen, Hanuschgasse 3 (tel: (01) 5144 42960). A list of the many ticket agencies in Vienna is available online (website: www.magwien.gv.at/english/ticketing.htm).
The tourist office at Albetinaplatz produces a monthly magazine of cultural events, called Programm. Another free monthly listing source is Wien Magazin (website: www.wienmagazin.at) and the weekly tabloid, Falter (website: www.falter.at), which is published (in German) each Wednesday. Classical concerts are listed under ‘Musik-E’, pop, jazz and folk are listed under ‘Musik-U’ and clubs are listed under ‘Party-time’ in the Wienprogramm & Lexikon, yet another weekly cultural magazine. Online information on cultural events in Vienna is readily available (websites: www.viennaonline.at or www.magwien.gv.at/english).
Music: Vienna is probably home to more classical music performances than any other city in the world. In addition to the regular performance season, which generally runs from September to June, there are nine annual festivals and numerous special events. Almost completely obscured in the shadow of the past, is Vienna’s vibrant youth scene, with venues offering everything from punk bands to the latest pop favourites.
The Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera), Hanuschgasse 3 (tel: (01) 5144 42960; fax: (01) 5144 42969; website: www.wiener-staatsoper.at), performs daily September to June from a repertoire of nearly one hundred operas, operettas and ballets. The splendid opera house makes for a romantic and regal setting in which to see the performances. Standing-room tickets are a bargain at €3.50 but the queue for tickets starts in the late afternoon.
The Volksoper (People’s Opera), Währingerstrasse 78 (tel: (01) 5144 43318; fax: (01) 5144 42969; website: www.volksoper.at), is a somewhat smaller venue that stages performances from a repertoire of 50 different, lighter works, including musicals.
The Vienna Boys’ Choir (website: www.wsk.at) is a Viennese institution, having been formed as the Boys’ Choir of the Royal Court in 1498. Together with members of the chorus and orchestra of the Vienna State Opera, they form the Hofmusikkapelle, which performs at Mass in the Chapel of the Imperial Palace at 0915 on Sundays September to June. Seats cost €5–30 (standing room is free). Tickets should be ordered at least ten weeks in advance from Hofmusikkapelle, Hofburg, 1010 Vienna (fax: (01) 5339 92775; website: www.wsk.at). The Vienna Boys’ Choir also performs concerts in the Brahms-Saal (Brahms Hall), the venue for chamber music in the Musikverein, Bösendorferstrasse 12 (tel: (01) 505 8190; fax: (01) 5058 68194; e-mail: tickets@musikverein.at; website: www.musikverein-wien.at), Friday at 1600, from April to June and September to October. The programme costs €6–36 and consists of madrigals and motets, waltz music and folk songs. Tickets are available from hotels or from the Mondial travel agency, Faulmanngasse 4, 1040 Vienna (tel: (01) 585 2688; fax: (01) 587 1268; e-mail: ticket@mondial.via.at; website: www.mondial-travel.com).
The renowned Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra (tel: (01) 505 6525; fax: (01) 505 9220; e-mail: philoffice@wienerphilharmoniker.at; website: www.wienerphilharmoniker.at) performs at the Musikverein (see above). The annual New Year’s Eve concert is broadcast throughout the world, while the previous year’s concert is now available for viewing in the Haus der Musik (see Further Distractions). The Vienna Symphonic Orchestra (website: www.wiener-symphoniker.at) performs at the Wiener Konzerthaus, Lothringerstrasse 20 (tel: (01) 712 1211; fax: (01) 712 2872; e-mail: ticket@konzerthaus.at; website: www.konzerthaus.at), as well as a few other venues. The Konzerthaus is also home to the Wiener Singakademie choir (website: www.wienersingakademie.at) and hosts touring international orchestras.
The Osterklang (Sounds of Easter) music festival (tel: (01) 4000 8410; fax: (01) 40009 98410; website: www.osterklang.at) takes place annually during Easter week. The festival includes performances by both the Philharmonic and Symphonic orchestras, chamber music concerts and a special opera performance, as well as touring international orchestras and a midnight mass concert in St Stephen’s Cathedral. Tickets cost €15–100 (depending on the venue and seating) and visitors can get hold of one by writing to Oster- und Klangbogen Kartenbüro, Stadiongasse 9, 1010 Vienna.
Theatre: Like music, theatre also has a long and proud tradition in Vienna – the patronage of the Imperial Court has been an important factor in its development. There are 50 theatres in the city but the Burgtheater (Palace Theatre), Dr Karl Lueger Ring 2, First District (tel: (01) 5144 4440; website: www.burgtheater.at), stands at the forefront and is an intense source of pride to the Viennese. This impressive edifice is the oldest and one of the most important stages in the German-speaking world. Built on the Ringstrasse in the 19th century, the theatre stages classical and contemporary works of the very highest standards of production. Guided tours are available for €5, if booked in advance by writing to the theatre at Dr Karl-Lueger Ring, 1010 Vienna (tel: (01) 5144 42218; fax: (01) 5144 42624).
The Akademietheater, Lisztstrasse 1, Third District (tel: (01) 5144 4740), is the smaller venue where the Burgtheater’s players also perform. The Volkstheater, Neustiftgasse 1 (tel: (01) 524 7263/4; website: www.volkstheater.at), Theater in der Josefstadt, Josefstädter Strasse 26 (tel: (01) 42700; website: www.josefstadt.org), and the Schauspielhaus, Porzellangasse 19 (tel: (01) 317 0101; website: www.schauspielhaus.at), which offers an ambitious experimental programme, are all important German-language theatres in Vienna.
For English-language productions, Vienna’s English Theatre, Josefgasse 12 (tel: (01) 402 1260; fax: (01) 408 8003; website: www.englishtheatre.at), has an excellent reputation on the world stage, to the extent that many contemporary playwrights choose to premier their works here. There are also annual productions of French- and Italian-language works. The International Theatre, Porzellangasse 8 (tel: (01) 319 6272; fax: (01) 310 8997), offers a programme of American and English plays.
The Viennese theatre season traditionally runs from September to June, although there are often special performances in the summer, particularly during one of the many festivals. The larger theatres stage daily productions, while the smaller ones may have one or two nights off. There are also a number of cabarets in the city.
Dance: The Im Puls Tanz dance festival (website: www.impulstanz.com) takes place in July and August, with performances at the Volkstheater Neustiftgasse 1 (tel: (01) 524 7263/4; website: www.volkstheater.at), as well as other venues, where avant-garde dance is showcased by both local and international dance companies.
Film: Many American and British films are shown in the original language with subtitles. Listings are posted on kiosks and in Der Falter (website: www.falter.at). ‘OF’ after the film title indicates that it is shown in its original language without subtitles. ‘Omengu’ indicates that the film is in the original language with English subtitles, ‘OmU’ indicates original language with German subtitles and ‘OmÜ’ means the film is shown in its original language with live German translation. If the title is followed by ‘dF’, this indicates that the film is dubbed into German.
Two of Vienna’s finest cinema complexes are Apollo, Gumpendorferstrasse 63, Sixth District (tel: (01) 587 9651), and UCI Kinowelt, Lasallestrasse 71, Second District (tel: (01) 21100). Vienna cinemas that specialise in English-language films include the English Cinema Haydn, Mariahilferstrasse 57, Sixth District (tel: (01) 587 2262), and Flotten American Center, Mariahilferstrasse 85, Sixth District (tel: (01) 586 5152).
The arthouse Bellaria, Museumstrasse 3, Seventh District (tel: (01) 523 7591), is exactly as it was when it opened just after the war. German films from 1928–55 are shown in the afternoon and newer films in the evenings. Other arthouse cinemas include Filmcasino, Margaretenstrasse 78, Fourth District (tel: (01) 587 9062), Schikaneder, Margaretenstrasse 24, Fourth District (tel: (01) 585 2867), with an innovative programme including parties and exhibitions, and Votiv, Währigerstrasse 12, Ninth District (tel: (01) 317 3571; website: www.votivkino.at), with cinema-breakfasts on certain Sundays.
During the break in the regular opera and classical music schedule (July and August), devotees can enjoy free opera and music films on the giant screen in front of the Rathaus.
The 1949 Carol Reed film, The Third Man, presents an extremely well-known vision of Vienna. In it, Orson Welles plays Harry Lime, who evades the authorities via the sewers and back alleys of bombed-out, post-war Vienna. The Burg-Kino, Opernring 19, shows this film every Friday at 2050 and Sunday at 1415. Amadeus (1984), another film set in Vienna – although shot mainly in Prague – takes a look at Mozart’s last years in the city and the jealousies and intrigues that filled the Imperial Court. For 20-something travellers to the city, Richard Linklater’s Before Sunrise (1995) is required viewing, as it portrays one romantic night in Vienna, between the time that two railway travellers meet up and then depart on their separate ways the following morning.
Cultural events: The Wiener Festwochen (website: www.festwochen.or.at) takes place in May and June, featuring a variety of musical drama, avant-garde theatre, dance and other performances. The Klangbogen Festival (tel: (01) 4000 8410; fax: (01) 40009 98410; website: www.klangbogen.at) fills the gap in the classical music schedule with a number of operas, operettas and orchestral and chamber music events from late June until early September. The Donauinselfest (website: www.donauinselfest.at) offers a modern alternative to Vienna’s rich classical music scene. The end of June sees two million people flock to one of Europe’s biggest outdoor parties. This free event features pop, rock and folk concerts over the course of three days.
Literary Notes
Vienna has been featured in writing throughout the ages. One of the earliest depictions of the area appears in the Nibelungenlied (c.1200), a medieval epic partially set in the Wachau Valley, upstream from Vienna. Later on, when Vienna itself was flourishing, Mozart was probably the most famous inhabitant and he has certainly captured the imagination of those writing about the city. Peter Shaffer wrote the play, Amadeus (1979), about Mozart’s last years in the city. This was made into a film of the same name a few years later. A less thriving post-war Vienna is evocatively portrayed in Graham Greene’s novel, The Third Man (1949), also made into a film.
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General
